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RedNex Memorial May Sale

RedNex is very excited to bring to you our 4th annual Memorial May Sale! We dedicate this month to the brave men and women who have died for our country. We are forever thankful.

As in previous years - this sale lasts from May 1st through May 31st. For the entire month we will be offering the following:

~ All VETERANS & ACTIVE Duty military will receive 10% off of all non-sale items (must show ID)
~ Free lunch served EVERY Wednesday from 11-1
~ Firearms Discounts
Smith & Wesson Rebate Pistols

  • S&W Shield Pistols - $40 off ticketed price (+ $75 S&W mail-in rebate)
  • S&W Bodyguard 380 w/Laser - $379.99 (+ $50 S&W mail-in rebate)
  • S&W Bodyguard 380 w/o Laser - $319.99 (+ $50 S&W mail-in rebate)
  • S&W SD/SDVE 9mm & 40SW - $329.99 (+ $25 S&W mail-in rebate)

Non-Rebate Firearms
  • Select S&W M&P 15 Rifles - $899.99
  • S&W M&P 22 Compact - $40 off
  • Colt Expanse - $649.99
  • Ruger American Pistols, Rifles & the ammo/accessories to go with them - 10% off (In store or Order)

    We look forward to seeing each and every one of you!

Gun Stuff 101 - Patterning Your Shotgun, Post 1

We’ve talked in the past about sighting in a rifle for a particular load and the time and effort that is sometimes required to find the round that performs best for a particular gun. Sometimes “good enough” is ok, but I think most sportsmen and women, would rather use the best possible gun and ammo combination available to them. Or at the least, they would want to know how their gun performs with the particular round they are using, even if it is not the best.

Patterning a shotgun can be just as important as sighting in a rifle, and is beneficial for several reasons. There are new types of shotgun shells introduced every year, for every type of hunting, and new choke tubes too. Some of the new choke tubes are general purpose and can be used for a variety of shooting, but many are specific to a particular load. On the other hand, some of the shells produced are designed to shoot well with the factory tubes that come with your gun, while others benefit from a tube that is specific for that shell. You may be surprised to find that your full choke doesn’t give you as tight a pattern as your modified choke with a particular shell. This could be because of the wad type used in the shell, or perhaps your gun happens to shoot a much better pattern with an aftermarket choke tube than the factory tube that came with your gun.

In order to understand how these shells will perform in your gun, or how effective and compatible your choke is with the load you are shooting you have to pattern it. In doing so, you can also determine if your gun is shooting to “point of aim” or not; surprisingly, many shotguns actually do not shoot to “point of aim”. Without mentioning any specific brands, some manufacturers design their guns to allow you to “float” the target over your front bead to give you a full view of it before shooting. With a gun designed as such you will likely over shoot and miss if you aim with your bead in the center of the target. It is not a fault of the gun, choke, or ammo, it is simply how they are designed – and patterning your gun will help keep you from making that mistake.

Patterning your gun is a fairly easy process, but it requires some patience and a good shooting rest. If you have patterned a shotgun before and did not use a rest, then you were not doing it correctly – sorry, there’s no other way to put it. The shooting rest is critical, because it helps to reduce the “human error” element of shooting. It’s no different than using a good rest for sighting in a rifle. You are not trying to determine how well you shoot the gun – you are trying to determine how or how well the gun shoots the ammo. If you add inevitable “human error” into the equation, your results will be skewed - whether you realize it or not. After giving in, and using a rest, the remaining process is up to you. You need to determine shooting scenarios you may encounter, and the distances at which you need to shoot. Set your targets up accordingly, and pattern your gun. You will have the greatest success, from the start, if you take the proper steps we’ve outlined above.

In order to assist our customers and provide them with the best information that we can give, we often test our products or use them ourselves for our own shooting and hunting activities. We want to be able to tell you first- hand what has worked for us or what we have discovered in testing. Over the next several months we are going to experiment with multiple types of shot shells and choke tube combinations. We will be using chokes from several different manufacturers and shooting different buckshot, waterfowl, and turkey shells. We will report on what we find on Facebook (Like us at RedNex Sporting Goods) & Instagram (rednexsportinggoods), and we will also have that information available to you when you come into the store. Stay tuned!


What do you mean by “pattern”? – As shot leaves the barrel, it begins to disperse in the air, resulting in a cloud of pellets. The ideal pattern would be a circle, with an even distribution of shot throughout, with a density sufficient to ensure enough pellets will intersect the target to achieve the desired result. – Wikipedia

What is a choke tube? – A choke tube constricts the end of the barrel to change the pattern of shot as it leaves the muzzle. Choke tubes come in different thicknesses/bore narrowing, depending on the shot pattern desired, and are screwed into the muzzle-end of a barrel. Think of a fireman’s hose, you can constrict the flow of water by twisting the nozzle - hard stream of water (that can travel quite a distance) all the way to a soft spray (which doesn’t go very far). The same concept can be applied using choke tubes.

RedNex will never forget ...

Between 9/11 & 11/11, we will be having a donation drive benefiting the FDNY Foundation & the Intrepid Fallen Heroes Fund.

Gen 3 Glock 23 - $499.99
Gen 4 Glock 23 - $529.99


In addition to any donations made by customers, RedNex will make a donation of $25 to either fund (customer's choice) for each, specially priced, GLOCK 23 sold. We are honoring our Flag and Country by replacing the slide back plate on each Glock with a custom laser engraved American Flag.

Value vs Price

For better or worse, mostly worse, America has become a nation of “big box”, mega retailers or online giants, like Amazon. Think about where you bought most of the products you own. Were they bought at a small independent business or at a big box store? Unfortunately, in many cases, we don’t even have a choice where we buy something because many of the small, independently owned businesses are gone.

While there is a great deal of convenience in being able to make all of our purchases from only one or two places, it’s not always better. Have you ever been to one of these giant stores and felt like no one there cares one iota about your needs? Have you ever wanted to pull your hair out trying to resolve a problem over the phone because of an issue you had with an internet purchase? I know I have.

The gun industry is largely moving in that direction, and it is very unfortunate. There are many online gun retailers where people can find the cheapest prices on firearms and accessories and there’s at least one “big box” sporting goods store in almost every city in the country. While we try to remain competitive in our pricing, sometimes we can match their prices and sometimes we can’t. Without naming any names, compare our prices to the prices at the large firearms retailers in the Richmond area and you’ll see that we are very competitive. Shop locally and you'll also save time and gas!

As for internet retailers who undercut everyone, they can do so because they do not have to dedicate a single cent to customer service. But we have a solution for that too. RedNex now has an online store that offers prices very close to many of the other internet stores. (Click here to Shop Online) If you do decide to purchase a gun from our online store you won’t get the warranty, discount and free gun cleaning package that you receive when purchasing a gun in store, but you will receive the same level of customer service when you come to pick up your new firearm, accessory or ammunition.

Competitive pricing is not the only thing we offer. RedNex has something that online stores and big box retailers cannot and will not ever be able to compete with – customer service provided by a knowledgeable staff that cares about your needs. We want everyone to be satisfied with every purchase they make here and we want you to know that YOU MATTER TO US! I am grateful for each and every customer that walks through our doors, and I want to thank all of you personally for continuing to do business with us.

For those that do not shop with us, we hope to earn your business and I promise that if you give us a chance we will provide you with the best personal customer service, bar none. Big box/ online retailers can’t offer this. Have an issue with a gun you bought from a big box store or on line retailer? You’re out of luck. At best you have a big headache awaiting you. Buy it from us and have an issue? - In many cases we can have it resolved while you have a cup of coffee, and we often do it at no cost to you.

While we continue to strive to be competitive, we are forced to take a stand. Going forward, RedNex will no longer be the transfer agent for current production firearms from any other retailer as long as it is a product that we are able to provide for you. We will of course continue to transfer used firearms and collector’s guns, as well as hard to get items that we can’t find for you. Our knowledgeable staff is the best at what we do, and I am confident that you will be pleased with the level of service we provide. If we don't have the item you are looking for in the store, we can either order it for you, or you can order online. (Click here to Shop Online) In many cases, except for firearms, your purchase ships right to your door. Give us a try, you won’t be disappointed.


Gun Stuff 101 - Muzzleloaders Part 3

Muzzleloaders Part 3 - by Josh
ml #3 Once you’ve selected a powder and bullet it’s time to go to the shooting bench and start zeroing your rifle. In the following paragraphs I will discuss the process of loading a muzzleloader, as well as a few tips that will make shooting your muzzleloader more enjoyable.

tc-t17-breechplug-grease1All modern muzzleloaders have a breech plug. As its name suggests, it is a threaded plug located at the breech of your rifle. In the center of the breech plug is a tiny flash hole. The rear of the breech plug is designed to hold the primer or cap. Before firing your muzzleloader it is important to apply an anti-seize grease (breech plug grease), which is necessary for easy breech plug removal during cleaning.

The bullet is loaded from the muzzle end and has to be pushed down until it reaches the powder you added, which is sitting on the breech plug. If using a bullet with a plastic tip, it is often helpful to screw a jag or bullet seater on the end of your ramrod that has a recessed hole so the tip of your bullet is not damaged while loading. hornady-black-powder-bullets-barnes-bullet-seaterThe bullet inside of the plastic sabot is a tight fit in your bore so adding a little lube can make things a lot easier. You can buy pre saturated patches that contain lube or you can buy the patches and lube separately. Whether you buy pre-saturated or not, the process is the same. Place a patch with lube over your muzzle, and using your ramrod with jag (supplied with your muzzleloader) work the lubed patch up and down your barrel. Be careful not to over -do -it with the lube -- a little goes a long way. If you do this each time you shoot, you begin to season your barrel much like a cast iron skillet, and loading and cleaning become much easier. So drop in your powder, load your bullet and next, let’s place the primer at the rear of your breech plug in the primer chamber.

primer loadi Most modern muzzleloaders use a 209 primer to ignite the powder just like the ones used in shot shells. Earlier muzzleloaders used either musket caps or Number 11 percussion caps, but they were much less reliable than the 209 primer. Some manufacturers make primers that are designed and marketed as muzzle loading 209 primers and they are fine to use but standard shot shell primers should perform well too. It’s best to consult the powder manufacturer to determine which is best to use for their powder.

Remember, whether shooting at the bench or hunting from a blind or tree stand never load your primer in the breech plug until you are seated and ready to safely shoot. With your gun loaded with powder, a bullet, and a primer, you’re ready to take aim and shoot.

Powders in muzzleloaders can be very dirty and produce extreme amounts of fouling -- accumulation of unwanted material on solid surfaces to the detriment of function – therefore, it’s extremely necessary to clean this fouling out before you put your gun away, and also in between shots if possible. The use of a lube such as Thompson Center’s Bore Butter can aid in cleaning your gun when used prior to shooting, and also makes loading the rifle much easier as well.

Shooting and hunting with a muzzleloader can be a fun, rewarding experience. Just remember to follow all common sense safety precautions and have a great time. We’ll talk about the actual cleaning process in the next and final Muzzleloading post.

Gun Stuff 101 - Muzzleloaders Part 1

Muzzleloaders Part 1 - by Josh
muzzleloader My favorite time of year is just around the corner – muzzleloader season. The first two weeks of November are the best weeks for deer hunting in our neck of the woods. If you’ve never, been I highly recommend it. The normally keen and elusive big bucks seem to lose their minds in the rut (mating season) in search of does. So it’s the time of year to see more deer activity than any other time. But seeing them is only part of the fun. Successfully and humanely harvesting a doe or nice buck is the other part. There is plenty of gear available to accomplish this and I’d like to dedicate the next few weeks to talking about what is available to the muzzleloading hunter and how to use it.

Without getting in to too much history and detail, early muzzleloaders used black powder as a propellant. Today actual black powder is much less common. The majority of hunters use black powder substitutes such as Pyrodex, Triple 7, White Hots, Blackhorn 209 and several others. There are even muzzleloaders that can be used with a variety of smokeless powders too, but I’m going to focus primarily on the black powder substitutes.

There are many brands and types of powders available for us today and like everything else, advancements in technology bring us newer and better (sometimes) products. Powders for muzzleloaders are either pre-measured compressed cylindrical pellets, pre-measured rectangular sticks, or loose which has to be measured either by volume or weight. There are pros and cons to each type depending on your expectations.


Shooting with loose powders typically yields better accuracy. They burn faster and more consistently than pellets or sticks because there is more surface area to be burned. The size of the grains of loose powder can affect burn rate as well. Some powders like Blackhorn 209 do not vary in grain size but others like American Pioneer and Triple 7 do. For those that do they use the “F” designation to indicate the grain size (the “F” correlates to the screen size used to separate out grains during manufacturing). So you might see a bottle of Triple 7 that says FF next to one that says FFF. The powders are the same, but the grains of the FF are larger than the FFF. Typically (but not always) the FF powders are used for .50 cal rifles while the smaller FFF is used for smaller bore rifles and handguns. Some manufacturers like Pyrodex simplify it even further by labeling their powders either for pistol, rifle or shotgun. It is important to note that loose powders when measured by volume will be different than when weighed on a scale. For example 100 grains by volume might be 70 or 80 grains by weight, so be careful not to confuse the two. Over charging can destroy a gun and more importantly cause injury to the shooter. To see what overcharging a muzzle loader can look like … Google it … it’s not pretty.

Powders in pellet or stick form do not burn as consistently as loose powders but can still be very accurate for hunting and are certainly more convenient. They typically come in 30 or 50 grain sizes. The majority of hunters will either use 100 or 150 grains so two or three-50 grain pellets. Some will shoot 90 grains so three-30 grain pellets. It’s a matter of trial and error which combination of powder charge and bullet will work best in your gun so like I always say – you’ve got to shoot it to find out. Each manufacturer will vary on the suggested minimums and maximums for their powders so I strongly suggest you do a little research before you shoot.

It is inhumane to use too light a charge as it will not quickly and cleanly kill, and you certainly don’t want to blow your gun up by having too much powder.

In the coming weeks I’ll talk more about powders, maintenance, cleaning and shooting muzzleloaders. Send me an email if you have a specific question you’d like me to address.

Gun Stuff 101 - Bore Sighting vs Sighting In

Bore Sighting vs Sighting In - by Josh

Optics are one of the most commonly purchased accessories here at RedNex and we have a big selection to meet every need for the hunting and shooting sports. Because of this, we spend a lot of time mounting scopes, which we do for free if the gun or scope was purchased from us. A question I get often as I am about to mount a scope for someone is “are you going to sight it in?” This week I want to talk about the difference between sighting in and bore sighting a rifle.

Bore sighting is simply aligning an optic or iron sights with a barrel prior to shooting so that zeroing the rifle is much easier. As we’ve talked about in previous weeks, bullets will perform differently in every firearm. Some guns will shoot “x” bullet better than they will shoot “y” bullet. So to actually zero a rifle for a particular bullet it has to be fired with that bullet on paper- at this point you will be sighting in your rifle. We can sight in your rifle, it’s a service we provide, but short of that, we can only get you close (~25 yards) by bore sighting.

There are several ways to bore sight a gun, and while some may be better than others, they all work well if the shooter takes the necessary steps at the range when he/she is ready to zero the rifle (sight in). In bolt action firearms with scopes, bore sighting can be performed by removing the bolt so that you can look down the barrel. Find a particular object or spot while looking down the bore. Without moving the rifle simply move the crosshairs with the adjustment turrets on the scope until the crosshairs are on the same spot. bore sighting three

For a firearm that does not have an accessible breech there are many devices that can assist in bore sighting. The two most common are magnetic and laser bore sighters. Magnetic bore sighters are good for optics with magnification. Laser bore sighters can be used for magnified optics as well, but are particularly helpful with red dot optics.boremagnetic

When we bore sight a rifle for someone at the store, we always make it a point to tell them “You should be on paper at 25 yards.” This is very important because when beginning to sight in the rifle for longer distances, the shooter must start at 25 yards to get the first round on paper and adjust and back up from there. 25 yards

I cannot tell you how many times I have been approached by someone for whom I’ve bore sighted a rifle and been told that the scope was way off, or that when I mounted a scope that I must have forgotten to bore sight it. When I ask how far away they were the answer is almost always “about a hundred yards”, at which time I politely remind them again to start at 25 yards and back off from there. I’ve even had people shoot box after box of ammo from a hundred yards and never get on paper. If you fire from a hundred yards and your first round is nowhere on the paper don’t waste ammo, MOVE CLOSER! If done properly a rifle can be sighted in with five or six rounds with the last two rounds just as confirmation that the gun is in fact sighted in.

Last but not least, if you’re about to go hunting and your gun/scope has only been bore sighted, you are not ready to hunt. The gun must be properly sighted in with the rounds you intend to hunt with or else you will not have a successful hunt and more importantly you are likely to senselessly cripple an animal. Respect the game. Hunt ethically. Zero your gun before hunting. Your hunt will be much more enjoyable.

Hunt Ethically - Sight In your rifle before you start hunting!

Hunt Ethically - Sight In your rifle before you start hunting!

September Teal Hunt in Louisiana at Honey Brake Lodge!



Join RedNex Sporting Goods and Chesapeake Adventure Company on an action packed weekend of duck hunting. The package leaves Friday, Sept. 25th from Richmond, Va. and returns Sunday, Sept. 27th and includes the following:

  • Two nights stay at the famous Honey Brake Lodge in Jonesville, La.
  • All meals included (Gumbo, Catfish Etouffee, Roasted Pork, etc)
  • Two mornings of guided teal hunts over 40,000 acres of rice fields
  • Generous six-bird daily limit of teal
  • R/T Airfare from Richmond, Va. + On Ground Transportation in La.
hb teal

Because of our relationship with the lodge we were able to negotiate this all-inclusive Louisiana teal hunting package down to $2,100 per hunter which includes airfare!

Contact us for more information or to save your space for this unforgettable trip today!! 804-443-0197

For more information on the Honey Brake Lodge, click HERE

Guides:Jared Mophett and Blake Soileau and a group of Alabama teal hunters

Guides:Jared Mophett and Blake Soileau and a group of Alabama teal hunters


Gun Stuff 101 - Twist Rate

Twist Rate by Josh

I’ve talked before about ammunition compatibility with certain firearms and how some guns “like” one type of ammo over another, or perform better with a specific type of ammo. My past references have been in regard to pistols and shotguns, but ammunition / rifle compatibility is especially important when working to shoot your rifles as accurately as possible.

For bullets to be stabilized as they fly through the air at high velocities, they must have spin which is imparted by the rifling in barrels. Rifling is the spiral grooves machined on the inside of the bore. The rate of twist in the rifling of a barrel is an important factor in determining which bullet will be most consistent or “accurate” out of that barrel. I have seen first- hand where group sizes looked more like someone was patterning a shotgun than shooting for groups on paper. This was a result of the wrong cartridge/bullet combo for a particular twist rate. If you’re familiar enough with a particular caliber you could probably even tell what twist rate a rifle has just by seeing how certain types of ammo perform with it. So here’s a very basic explanation of twist rates that might help shed a little light on the subject.

The twist rate of a barrel is commonly expressed in inches. So if you look at a barrel or a manufacturer’s spec sheet for a particular gun you will see something like this – twist = 1/7 or 1:7 which means there is one full twist of rifling in seven inches of barrel. 1/9 = one twist of rifling in 9 inches of barrel and so on. So an 18” barrel with a 1/9 twist will have two complete twists of rifling in the barrel.

twist rate

Longer bullets require a faster rate of twist to stabilize them than shorter bullets of the same caliber. Longer bullets are typically heavier, so many shooters associate bullet weight with twist rate. For example, in a .223 a 1/9 twist rate is good for 55 grain bullets but the same twist rate will not stabilize a 75 grain bullet as well. The 55 grain bullets out of a 1/9 barrel can produce sub half inch groups where the 75’s through the same barrel would probably produce 3 or 4 inch groups. The 75 grain bullet is heavier so it would seem like the weight is the critical factor but it is actually the length of the projectile that is critical.

In most cases one would be correct in seeking heavier bullets for a faster twist rate or lighter bullets for a slower twist rate but not always. The majority of bullets used in today’s ammo are copper jacketed lead core bullets. But many companies like Barnes are producing solid copper bullets and copper is not as dense as lead. Using the .223 again as an example, a 55 grain solid copper bullet will be longer than a lead core bullet, so the same 1/9 barrel mentioned above might not stabilize the 55 grain solid copper bullet as well. It may need the same twist rate that it would take to stabilize the 75 grain lead core bullets.

The velocity at which the bullet travels through the barrel is also critical as it relates to twist rate. Let’s use the .223 again as an example and the .22-250. Most .223’s will have a twist rate of 1/7, 1/8, or 1/9, while most 22-250’s will have twist rates of 1/12 or 1/14. The bullets of both of those cartridges are the same diameter so why the different twist rate? – Velocity. The 22-250 will push the same bullet through the same size barrel at a much faster speed so it does not need as fast a rate of twist to achieve the same rpm’s needed to stabilize the bullet.

Twist rate and ammo compatibility may not be the answer to every “accuracy” problem. There may be multiple issues with a shooters gun that are not allowing him/her to shoot consistently. But trying a variety of ammunition with different bullet weights (lengths) can be the first step to eliminate that one aspect.

Gun Stuff 101

Reloading …. By Josh

Waterlogue 1.1.2 (1.1.2003) Preset Style = ?It's Technical? Format = Medium Format Margin = Small Format Border = Sm. Rounded Drawing = Technical Pen Drawing Weight = Medium Drawing Detail = High Paint = Natural Paint Lightness = Normal Paint Intensity = Normal Water = Tap Water Water Edges = Medium Water Bleed = Minimal Brush = Natural Detail Brush Focus = Everything Brush Spacing = Wide Paper = Graph Paper Texture = Medium Paper Shading = Light “How much does it cost to get into reloading?” “Is it worth it to reload?” There’s not any one simple answer to either one of those questions but let’s address both.

Why do people reload anyway??? 1. If you do a high volume of shooting, reloading will benefit you economically. 2. You might want to tailor your cartridge load specifically for a particular gun for accuracy and reliability. 3. The cartridge you want to shoot is not commercially available.

So where do you start? First you need to select what caliber and bullet-type you would like to load and buy the appropriate reloading manual. There are many manuals available to the shooter, like Hodgdon’s Annual Manual, printed yearly, which will have a variety of load data available for the powders that Hodgdon produces. For a beginner, it is better to buy a manual for a specific bullet manufacturer because it will not only have the load data for their bullets, it will also give you the information you need to learn how to reload - safely and competently. Hornady, Nosler, Speer and Sierra manuals are all excellent for the beginner and I would recommend any of these to a person interested in reloading. After you have a manual, you need to decide what type of reloading setup you want.

The least expensive reloading set up is a Lee Precision “Lee Loader” Kit and for about $39 plus components (powder, primers, brass etc.) you could have all the hardware you need to load many of today’s popular pistol and rifle calibers. This set up is very rudimentary and not very fast. So technically you could reload for very cheap but the setup is less than desirable.

The single stage press is the most common reloading press in use and a person can either buy their press and other hardware separately or buy one of the many kits that companies like RCBS, Lee and Hornady are selling. The kit will include all of the hardware needed to begin reloading. A reloading press performs three functions (typically) for pistol brass – resizing the shell, expanding the mouth of the shell and seating the bullet – and there are three dies to perform these functions. Rifle brass (bottle neck not straight wall) requires two dies as the press only resizes the shell and seats the bullet. Single stage presses only accept one die at a time so the handle of the press has to be pulled and dies changed out for each function. Single stage presses are definitely the better choice for shooters who are after precision, and will work for those who do a lot of high volume shooting, but there are faster options for you high volume shooters.

A slightly faster setup is a turret top press. Turret top presses can accept up to six dies at one time (2 complete pistol setups or 3 complete rifle set ups). The handle of the press has to be pulled for each function but you will spend a lot less time changing out dies.

The fastest reloading setup is the progressive press. Every function performed in the reloading process from seating the primer to measuring the powder to seating the bullet is performed on the progressive press, and each pull of the handle dispenses a fully loaded cartridge. This setup can save a lot of time for the reloader and it is consistent enough to produce quality reloads, but not ideal for the benchrest shooter who is after precision.

Each reloading setup gets increasingly more expensive but typically the more time you spend reloading, the quicker it gets. So is it worth it? Which setup is better? It depends on your budget, and only you can put a value on your time.